Installation Instructions for DYNATRAC Conversion Kits
KLM PERFORMANCE IS THE EAST COAST DISTRIBUTOR FOR DYNATRAC
FREE SPIN HUB KITS. KLM PERFORMANCE HAS ALL DYNATRAC FREE SPIN HUB KITS IN
STOCK. NEED THE KIT TODAY? CALL US BY 3:00 P.M. AND IT WILL SHIP TODAY. WE DON'T
DROP SHIP.
WE SHIP FROM
OUR INVENTORY.
IF YOUR TRUCK IS DOWN AND YOU NEED
THE KIT NOW, CALL KLM PERFORMANCE.
Dynatrac hubs are a world apart. Click here to
read more and for comparison pictures
showing the difference between OEM hubs and Dynatrac hubs. Many people who appear to be using their trucks under normal conditions --
stock tires and light-duty use -- have experienced failures within the first
50,000 miles of ownership. Officially, Ford says the unit bearings are a "nornal
wear" item, and therefore not covered by warranty at any mileage level.
Furthermore, some dealers are approving the work under warranty on a case-by
case basis. One-time repairs at a dealership can easily exceed $1,500. Fortunately, there is now a fix.
Installation Instructions for Dynatrac Hub Conversion Kits
1994-1999 Dodge Hub Kit – Stage 1 4x4, Front Axle “Free Spin” Conversion Kit
Some of the less
common tools, which will be required:
·
6-point Spanner socket (OTC
#7090-A or equivalent) OR 4-point Spanner socket (OTC #7158 or
equivalent). These can be purchased from Dynatrac or an auto parts store.
·
14mm, 12-point, ½” drive socket
·
1-11/16”, 6 point socket
·
Calibrated torque wrench.
·
Anti-Seize compound.
·
High quality, disc brake wheel
bearing grease.
·
Bearing Race Punch (Snap-on
#PPC14LA is a good one) to install bearing races.
·
4 quarts of high quality gear oil
- OPTIONAL
Preparation and Inspection Checks:
1.
Read all instructions completely. Only perform this installation if you
are an experienced, fully equipped mechanic. Inspect all boxes and packing
material to expose all the parts in the kit. Using the bill of material
attached, verify that the kit is complete. Contact Dynatrac about any shortages
at (714) 596-4461. Do not start the installation until you are sure you have
everything you need. Allow yourself plenty of time. You will need anywhere from
5 to 10 hours depending on your skill and experience level.
WARNING:
While working with tools, always wear proper safety equipment including safety
glasses and gloves. Improper use of tools and equipment can cause injury or
death.
WARNING:
Only perform this installation if you are an experienced, fully equipped
mechanic.
2.
You can reuse the original U-joints, but it is a good idea to replace the
U-joints when installing this kit. We have designed it to work with your
original parts. Use caution not to damage your U-joints when removing them from
the outer axle shaft. If you do need a U-joint for this application the
U-joints are common at most auto parts stores, and are in stock at Dynatrac.
iINFORMATION:
Replace old U-Joints if they are worn.
3.
This kit is NOT compatible with front wheel ABS on 94 thru 99 Dodge
trucks. Dynatrac does not recommend installing this kit on a vehicle equipped
with front wheel ABS. This kit has no effect and is compatible with Dodge trucks
equipped with only rear wheel ABS.
WARNING: This kit does not support front wheel
ABS. Dynatrac does not recommend installing this kit on a vehicle with front
wheel ABS as the system will no longer have a front wheel speed sensor and will
not function.
4.
Inspect the inside of the new wheel hubs for any leftover debris or dirt.
Wash the inside thoroughly with rags and hot soapy water. If the bearing races
are not already installed in the wheel hubs, use a race driver to install them
at this time. Snap-on, 9/16 race driver, #PPC14LA works great.
5.
Test fit the new inner and outer bearings onto each of the new spindles.
The bearings will fit snug, but go on easily by hand. However, it is a very
precise fit. If they get cocked they will lock themselves into place. Tapping
them lightly on the high side will straighten them out. Patience is essential.
6.
Raise the front axle off the ground and secure with jack stands. Remove
the wheels.
WARNING:
Always use appropriate jack stands when raising your vehicle. Never work under
a vehicle that is not properly secured. Be sure to chock any wheels that are on
the ground.
Begin Front Axle
Teardown:
7.
You may wish to remove the differential cover and drain the gear oil. It
is common for oil to leak into the axle housing tubes when the inner axles are
pulled outward past the inner axle seals. Whether you drain the oil or not, it
is best to thoroughly clean the inside of the axle tubes from any dirt, rust or
oil residue BEFORE re-installing the axle shafts later in the install process.
8.
Using the 1-11/16” socket and a long breaker bar (or impact gun), remove
the cotter pin and the big nut at the center of
the stock live spindle assembly. The nut can be very tight. Have someone step on
the brake pedal to keep the stock hub from rotating if needed.
9.
Remove the calipers and hang them securely from the frame without
disconnecting the brake hoses.
10.
There is one pilot diameter
machined on the outer end (long side) of the new wheel hubs. The pilot locates
the wheel. Make sure that the wheel fits easily but snugly around the respective
pilot diameter.
iINFORMATION:
Trial fit all parts on both sides of the truck before assembly.
11.
To remove the unit bearing/rotor
assembly: Use ONLY a 14mm 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts that hold
the live spindle assembly to the knuckle. Other sockets may appear to fit, but
may cause the bolt heads to become rounded off!! They are removed from the
backside. Set aside unit bearing and the brake shield. Keep the four (4) bolts
for installing the new spindle.
WARNING:
Do not use high heat to remove the live spindle from the knuckle, this
can cause damage to the components and reduce their strength.
12.
Separate the rotor from the live spindle by driving out the studs using a
brass drift. DO NOT damage the studs because they will be re-used. Replace any
damaged or questionable studs. You will also re-use the rotor.
13.
Your truck is equipped with an axle disconnect mechanism in the RH axle
tube. Remove the vacuum motor from the disconnect housing mid-way on the RH
tube. Inside will be a splined collar. Note how it mates with the axle shafts
inside. These parts must be re-installed when the RH axle shaft in assembled
later in the install process.
14.
Remove the axle shaft assembly. It is only held in by tight seal tension
at the differential. Use 1 or 2 pry bars between the yoke and the end of the
axle housing to pull straight outward if necessary. Be careful not to damage
your axle seals when removing the shafts. Set shafts aside.
15.
Remove the stock outer shafts from the U-joints. The U-joint caps are
matched to the U-joint so make sure that they are put back in the right
locations. Install the new 35 spline outer shaft onto the U-joint. If the old
joints are worn out, this is the best time to replace them. If you need a
U-joint, the U-joints are common at most auto parts stores, and are in stock at
Dynatrac.
iINFORMATION:
Replace old U-Joints if they appear worn.
Begin Front Axle
Reassembly:
16.
Install the slinger, dust boot, and thrust washer on the outer shafts.
They should press onto the shoulder of the outer shaft. Be careful not to damage
the bearing surface on the shaft. See Illustration A.
17.
If you have not cleaned the inside of the axle tubes as discussed in Step
7. Do so at this time.
18.
If not already assembled, press the needle bearing into the back of the
spindle. When installed correctly the needle bearing should be ¼” below the
surface of the spindle. This leaves enough room for the seal to also be fit in
to place. See Illustration A.
19.
Test fit your outer shafts fully into the needle bearing in the back of
the spindle. It should go in completely, easily and rotate freely. If it is
tight, or does not rotate easily contact Dynatrac for a replacement. Be careful
not to damage the spindle seal
(if already installed) with the splines when installing the shaft.
20.
Coat the seal surfaces on the inner shafts lightly with grease at the end
of the shaft that is going into the differential.
21.
Your truck is equipped with an axle disconnect mechanism in the RH axle
tube. Make sure the spline collar discussed in Step 14, is in its proper
place inside the disconnect housing. The collar must easily slide back and forth
over the large splines on the inner RH shaft (never removed) and the middle RH
shaft, which should now have the new 35-spline shaft mounted to it.
22.
Carefully insert the shaft into
the axle housing. Be careful not to
get any dirt or other contamination on the shaft as you install it, as it could
damage the bearings and seals. Guide the shaft up into the inner seal and
differential gears. Use a rubber mallet to tap the end of the shaft inward until
it stops. You may have to rotate the shaft to align the splines in the
differential.
23.
Fill the boot seal on the outer shaft with high quality wheel bearing
grease. Coat the area around the thrust washer with grease. Also add some
grease to the spindle needle bearing.
24.
Install the brake splash shields for the front disc brakes between the
spindle and the knuckle. Make sure they are not on backwards, or the shield will
not allow the rotor to be installed.
25.
Put a light coating of anti-seize compound on the shoulder surface of the
spindle. The anti-seize will make any future servicing much easier. While
guiding the outer shaft through the spindle, mount the spindle into the knuckle;
be careful not to damage the seal in the back of the spindle.
26.
Reuse your four (4) spindle mounting bolts (9/16-18 x 1.25”) to secure
the spindle to the knuckle. Apply Lock-tite 271 to the bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 85 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern. Make sure the spindle is firmly
seated and there are no gaps between the knuckle, shield, or spindle.
WARNING:
Use a calibrated torque wrench on all bolts. Always torque bolts in the order
listed.
27.
Check the shaft assembly for some endplay in and out. There MUST
be at least some endplay. The grease may make it difficult to feel the end play,
so you may want to pry the shaft in and out several times using screwdrivers at
the U-joint until you are certain that end play is present. DO NOT CONTINUE IF
THERE IS NO END PLAY. Also look inside the disconnect housing. Make sure the
seal is riding on the axle shaft seal surface of the RH mid-shaft.
WARNING: Do not continue if there is no endplay
in the shaft assembly after installation. Contact Dynatrac for assistance.
28.
Mount the rotor to the back of the new hub. It should fit the pilot snug.
Make sure there are no gaps whatsoever between the rotor and the wheel hub
flange. Drive or press the wheel studs through the rotor and into the wheel hub.
Make sure that each stud is all the way in. The rotor should be tight against
the back of the hub.
WARNING:
DO NOT pull the studs through with a lug nut, as this will risk your safety and
the safety of those around you on the highway. Improperly installed studs can
cause major failures that could lead to injury or death.
29.
Pack the new wheel bearings with grease. Proper packing of the bearings
is essential to bearing life and safety. Grease must thoroughly and
completely fill the voids between each roller, especially underneath the roller
cage. Do not just smear grease around the outside. This can easily be
accomplished by hand or with a simple bearing packer and grease gun available at
any auto parts store. If you are not sure how to pack a bearing by hand,
Dynatrac can provide a one page guide written by Timken via Fax, Email, or US
Mail on request. Load the inner bearing (large) into the new hub and drive
the hub seal into the back of the hub. The open side of the seal faces the
inside of the hub. Use your finger to also fill the area between the lips of the
seal with grease.
WARNING:
Properly packing the wheel bearings is essential to bearing life. Failure to
properly lubricate a bearing can result in bearing failure, damage to other
components, and risk of serious injury or death.
30.
On the new hubs, completely fill the area inside the hub, between the
bearings with grease up to the inside diameter of the inner & outer bearings.
Don’t skimp on the grease. There must be enough grease between the bearings so
that centrifugal force does not pull grease away from the bearings into the
center of the hub.
31.
After fully packing with grease, install the new wheel hubs onto the
spindles. Be careful not to damage the hub seal as it slides over the threaded
end of the spindle. Push the hub onto the spindle until the inner bearing
bottoms out. If it gets stuck part way, stop! Pull the hub off and try
again, keeping the bearing straight as it slides onto the spindle. Push the
outer bearing over the end of the spindle and into the open end of the hub. It
must seat against the outer race in the wheel hub.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the hub seal when installing it over the
threaded end of the spindle.
WARNING: Do not use the spanner nuts to force the hub and bearings onto the
spindle. If necessary, you may gently use a rubber mallet to tap the outer edge
of the hub.
32.
Screw the inner spanner nut onto the end of the spindle. There are
two (2) types of spanner nut sets, 4-point & 6-point. On the 6-point style the
inner and outer nuts are identical. On the 4-point style, the inner nut has a
tiny pin which must face outward. Torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs while
rotating the hub. Then back off the inner nut approximately 1/8
to ¼ of a turn. See page 1 for sourcing the proper hub socket. DO NOT use
punches to tap the nuts around!
WARNING: When installing a 4-point style spanner nut, the inner nut pin MUST
face outward.
WARNING: Use the proper tools and procedure to install the spanner nuts or
you may damage the bearings.
33.
For 4-point spanner nuts only:
Align the pin on the inner nut with a hole in the lock washer. The tab on the
inside of the lock washer must align with the slot in the spindle at the same
time. Be careful not to tighten or loosen the inner nut too much to achieve
alignment. The hub should spin freely with no pre-load on the bearings, but not
have more than .001” of end play. Only after the washer is fully seated against
the inner nut, may you screw on the outer nut (has no pin). Tighten the outer
nut to 70-75 ft-lbs.
34.
For 6-point spanner nuts only:
Install the star shaped lock washer with the outer tabs pointing outward. Align
the tab on the inside of the washer with the slot in the spindle. Put a coat of
grease on the back of the outer spanner nut. Screw the outer spanner nut on the
spindle and tighten to 65-70 ft-lbs. Then bend at least one of the tabs over the
front of the outer nut into one of the six (6) points on the nut. The hub
should spin freely with no pre-load on the bearings, but not have more than
.001” of end play.
35.
Install the WARNÒ
premium locking hubs. The gear body just slides in, and is held in place by the
big internal snap ring. Then the small snap ring goes over the end of the outer
axle shaft. You may need to pry the axle shaft outward to expose the snap ring
groove on the end of the shaft.
36.
Six (6) Allen screws hold on the cap. DO NOT over tighten the Allen
screws. Further instructions are included with the locking hubs. Please refer
to those directions for installing your hubs.
37.
Check the hubs by locking and unlocking several times. Never use tools to
turn the locking hub knobs; they should turn without the use of a tool. Rotate
the wheel forward and backward while simultaneously turning the knob if you feel
too much resistance.
CAUTION: Further instructions are included with
the WARNÒ
locking hubs; follow them for proper installation.
CAUTION: Never use tools to turn the knob on the locking hub; it should turn
without the use of a tool.
38.
Put the caliper back over the rotor and secure using your original
caliper bolts with some Lock-tite 271. Tighten bolts to factory specifications.
Spin the rotor and make certain that the caliper has adequate clearance from the
brake rotor.
39.
Your truck is equipped with an axle disconnect mechanism in the RH axle
tube. Use silicone to seal and reinstall the vacuum motor on the disconnect
housing. Make sure the fork engages the slot on the outside of the collar.
40.
Install your wheels on the new hubs and tighten your lug nuts to 110
ft-lbs.
41.
If any gear oil was lost during installation of your hub kit, refill the
axle to the previously noted level and test drive.
WARNING: Failure to properly refill the axle with Gear Oil can cause serious
gear and bearing failure which could result in serious injury or death.
42.
Recheck bolt torque on lug nuts after test-driving.
43.
Verify the proper gear oil level after a test drive.
44.
Check the torque on your lug nuts every 500 miles.
WARNING: Failure to check bolt and lugnut torque
can cause serious accident, component failure, serious injury or death.
About
Dynatrac and Dynatrac Hubs
For over 15 years, Dynatrac has been
the industry leader in high performance axle and drive
train assemblies. Dynatrac's products are designed using
the finest materials, processes, and engineering
available. Plus, Dynatrac proudly manufactures each
component in the United States and back its products
with the best service and warranty in the business. No
matter what type of vehicle you have or driving you do,
Dynatrac Products put the confidence underneath you to
get the job done, saving you time, money and headaches.
Dynatrac was founded to provide
off-road enthusiasts, small businesses, and corporate
fleets with a dependable source for high-quality drive
axle equipment. By offering the highest quality
alternative to stock, used and inferior rebuilt axles,
Dynatrac has become the industry leader in performance
axles. Dynatrac's continuing commitment to quality
craftsmanship, engineering excellence, and unsurpassed
customer service, ensure you the best possible
experience when it comes time to repair or upgrade your
truck.
All of Dynatrac’s products are
manufactured in the U.S. and are based out of the
company's Huntington Beach headquarters and factory.
Dynatrac's R&D, manufacturing, sales, and service
processes are all under exacting standards consumers and
retailers demand of Dynatrac. |
